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From the earliest recorded history
reference has been make to the snows of the Nile, the mystical
'mountains of the moon' that hide for months at a time in the clouds of
the Western Rift Valley.
There is no other range that captured
the imagination of Ptolemy and the old world philosophers in quite the
same way. Forest elephant and wild chimpanzees crash through the
undergrowth in the lower slopes, shy bushbuck hide amidst giant lobelia
forests and the elusive Rwenzori Turaco cuts a dash across the
thundering streams.
Clouds hide the range for most of the
year (it took Stanley over three months to see the peaks despite camping
50kms them), torrential rains drench the Ugandan side of the range and
the icefields are hidden from all but the hardiest of
creatures. However, a trek up the deep valleys of the Rwenzori is
an immersion in a different world. The vegetation that thrives on this
rain-soaked massif is nothing short of phenomenal and with each gain in
altitude it changes. Nature does its best to hide the
secrets of these mountains from us because even when the cloud lifts,
remarkable plants cling to sheer rock walls, giant heathers, draped with
'old mens beard' grow from
amidst slippery boulders and vivid green mosses blanket the
range.
The further we climb
the Ruwenzoris, the more awed we become with what has been hidden from
us. Leaving steamy tropical rainforest we hike through mist
shrouded bamboo, past hidden lakes, marvel at thundering waterfalls and
eventually traverse an equatorial icefield to the snow capped peak of
Margherita at 5109m.
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